Field Mission Diaries: Reflections from Madeira with the Edinburgh Ocean Leaders

Written by the 2024 Ocean Leaders

In October 2024, we, a group of eight Ocean Leaders from around the world, gathered in Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal, for the annual Edinburgh Ocean Leaders (EOL) field mission. This field mission is a cornerstone of the year-long Edinburgh Ocean Leaders executive leadership programme, designed to enhance leadership skills and facilitate knowledge exchange. We were joined by the EOL team, including co-founders and directors Meriwether Wilson and Sandy Tudhope, as well as leadership coach Sandra Morson. This year’s mission held special significance as it was hosted by João Canning-Clode, a marine ecologist and 2023 cohort member, on his home island.

Our 2024 cohort, representing Indonesia, the Maldives, Sri Lanka, Mozambique, South Africa, France, and the United States, arrived with little knowledge of Madeira beyond its connection to João. The island’s dramatic first impression left us mesmerised: a solitary sentinel in the Atlantic Ocean, its rugged mountains piercing the clouds.

Formed through ‘hot spot’ volcanism approximately 100 million years ago, Madeira was discovered by Portuguese explorers and populated in the 15th century. Today, with a population of about 250,000, its economy thrives on tourism, agriculture – particularly bananas and wine – and services. We were all curious to learn more about how the ocean sustains the Madeiran community and, in return, how they nurture and protect this vital resource.

Visiting the MARE-Madeira Lab

On Monday, 7th October, we began our fieldwork activities by visiting the MARE- Madeira team and spending the morning at their facilities. The visit started with João explaining how MARE-Madeira was established and its relationship with the hotel where the facilities are based. Afterwards, we toured the lab, where we spent our time learning about the marine invasive species being monitored. We discovered that the lab has been working for over 10 years on simulating climate change scenarios by studying the impact of various temperature variations on marine species. MARE-Madeira is recognised as one of the advanced research centres in Portugal. We also had the opportunity to see the algae restoration project, which focuses on monitoring Sargassum aquaculture planted on different substrates. This visit was an inspiring moment for us.

Later, we had lunch at the Fajã dos Padres restaurant in the Ribeira Brava area. The highlight was reaching the restaurant by cable car, travelling down the side of a steep cliff. After lunch, we took some time to walk around and observe the dramatic  sea cliffs, and we were pleasantly surprised to see a variety of tropical fruits in the area, such as mangoes and bananas.

Diving, snorkelling and learning sustainable tourism practice

On Tuesday, October 8th, we spent the day diving, snorkeling, and touring a sustainable hotel. Our in-water activities took place just in front of the Sentido Hotel at a dive site called Lava Finger. The site, about 20 meters deep with good visibility, offered fascinating marine life, including schooling fish, moray eels, smaller eels, and groupers. For some team members, the cold water and rocky habitat made it an especially unique experience.

Following the diving and snorkeling, we toured the Sentido Galosol, Madeira’s first sustainable hotel and a recipient of multiple sustainability awards. During the tour, the hotel team provided an in-depth explanation of their innovative eco-friendly practices. One highlight was their water management system: they use seawater to condition room air, repurposing it afterward as a water supply for swimming pools. Rainwater is collected to irrigate plants, and even sink water is recycled for flushing toilets.

Additionally, the hotel supports the local economy by prioritising local products and has implemented an energy monitoring system in guest rooms to encourage sustainable energy use.

Discussion with government officials

We met with the Regional Secretary for Agriculture, Fisheries and Environment.  To the group’s delight, the two policy leads that met with our cohort were very nature-positive, one even a recovering marine biologist.  They discussed the Ministry’s desire to understand more about climate change impacts in Madeira as well as manage the ecosystem and resources in an environmentally sustainable way. The issue, as always the case, includes having limited resources which forces agencies to prioritise the most pressing issues. We learned that the regional government can set their own conservation targets, including establishing marine protected areas. We also learned that most of the fisheries in Madeira (specifically black scabbard and tuna)  are consumed locally by tourists and the community, though when the Region exports fisheries on a commercial scale, they are always sent to Lisbon. We discussed the challenges in managing the emerging fish farming sector in Madeira and balancing the environmental, economic, and public option aspects inherited.  While there is some positive reception to small-scale fisheries and the environmental/ecosystem impacts are being closely monitored, there is still a general sentiment in the community that fish farming is a negative addition.

Later in the week, we also visited the government’s aquaculture centre where we met and discussed with its researchers. It was a interesting experience talking about fisheries monitoring, fisheries management measures, fisheries supply chain and aquaculture history. The researchers also gave us a tour to see the nursery facilities.

Museum: Madeira’s past, present and future

We visited the Natural History Museum of Funchal (Museu de História Natural do Funchal). It is Madeira’s oldest museum, located inside a classic building with Portuguese architecture. The museum is home to more than 50,000 records or around 200,000 species, all collected from Madeira showcasing the the uniqueness of Madeira’s biodiversity. It also has marine fossils, rocks, ancient woods, and minerals from the archipelago. 

Manuel Biscoito, the biologist and curator of the museum collections greeted and hosted our visit. The visit started with a section about the history of fisheries catch data collection in Madeira, followed by visiting various sections about geology history, marine mammals, fishes, birds, marine reptiles, insects, invertebrates and plants. Manuel explained the history of the museum and the information regarding the collections amazingly. His expertise, experience, dedication and leadership in managing the museum are a source of inspiration for us.

The majestic whale

On day five, the Ocean Leaders team faced a tough decision. The offshore weather was unforgiving, forcing us to postpone a visit to the Desertas Islands, home to the island’s largest marine protected area. In response, a new plan was quickly formed: a search for the elusive monk seal.

Madeira is not only a hotspot for marine mammals but also a refuge for endangered species, including sperm whales and the Mediterranean monk seal—named for its solitary behaviour. Despite our best efforts, we were unable to spot a monk seal on this trip.

However, the day was far from disappointing. On a thrilling, bumpy speedboat ride, we were joyfully greeted by a pod of pilot whales, offering a memorable encounter with Madeira’s rich marine life.

Reflection

As we reflect on our field trip through Madeira with the Edinburgh Ocean Leaders programme, we are invigorated by the possibilities that lie ahead. Immersed in the island’s vibrant ecosystems and sustainable practices, we’ve witnessed firsthand the profound impact that dedicated stewardship can have on our ocean. This experience has not only deepened our understanding of the intricate balance within marine environments but also strengthened our commitment to continue to become catalysts for positive change. The Edinburgh Ocean Leaders programme empowers individuals to drive innovative solutions for ocean conservation, and this trip has been a key step in that mission. With renewed inspiration and a shared vision, we are ready to chart a course toward a more sustainable future for our ocean, knowing that collective efforts can create waves of impact far beyond the shores of Madeira.

Scroll to Top